The Amethyst Room presents an exhibition of clothing by Aavaran and jewellery by Devi Jaipur on August 29th, 30th and 31st, 2024
Aavaran:
Aavaran is a lifestyle brand based out of Udaipur, Rajasthan. Deeply rooted in Indian culture and heritage, it started with a mission to revive the traditional craft of Dabu- mud-resist block printing and uplift the artisans practising it over generations in the small village of Akola, Chittorgarh. The founder, Ms Alka Sharma, took up the first project under the Ministry of Textiles- Government of India in 2009 and established Aavaran to create a platform for rural people to learn, evolve, be economically sound and find their base in the new markets.
The craft of Dabu traditionally belongs to the Chippa Community of Akola, Chittorgarh. When Aavaran started, only two families were practising the craft and were using coal tar instead of mud which was neither good for their health nor the environment. Dabu translates as ‘dabana’ in Hindi, which means to press. The process starts with preparing a sticky paste of clay by mixing mud (kali mitti), calcium hydroxide (chuna), and a solution of Acacia (babul) powder, for binding. The paste is strained through a fine cotton cloth twice and applied to the fabric using wooden blocks. Sawdust is applied to places where the mud resist is printed- to dry it quickly and also acts as a binder. The mud-resist prevents colour penetration while dyeing, leaving the area white.
The process is repeated two-three times to achieve a range of colours. The traditional garment called Phentiya (skirt), worn by the women of the farmer community in Akola, became the prime inspiration for indigo-dyed Dabu Printing. The motifs are usually inspired by the local flora and fauna, seasonal birds, old architecture, medicinal herbs and others. Every garment at Aavaran echoes the stories of art, culture, and traditions of rural India. The idea is to deepen the relationship with our culture and history and present it to our new generation in a way that connects. Aavaran takes pride in its specialisation in Indigo dyeing. Indigo available in powder form is 80% indigo and 20% ash. The ash from burning the babool tree is acetic, which acts as a catalyst in fermentation. This powdered form of indigo is dissolved in water, boiled, and left to cool down for 2-3 days. The dye bath made by dissolving lime and jaggery in water is left for 5-6 days, after which the indigo solution is poured into it. Other natural dyes are also frequently explored, the majority of which are from plant sources- roots, berries, bark, leaves and wood. Aavaran uses natural colourants like acacia catechu, eucalyptus leaves, myrobalan, pomegranate skin, Indian madder, turmeric, sural patta creeper, Alum, copper, sulphate, ferrous sulphate, and potassium dichromate. The colours used regularly other than indigo are- Kashish (grey), Nashpal (green), Harda (yellow), and Manjistha (pink).
They started as a textile-based company dealing in sarees, dupattas, and stoles and slowly tapped into new categories such as women’s wear-ethnic and indo-western, Men’s wear, kid’s wear, and a wide range of products in home furnishing. After a decade of successfully placing its foot in the market, Aavaran took a step further by tapping into the higher-end market. Their premium clothing range, Aavaran Luxury, was not just to move to the luxury sector; but also to generate more employment, explore heritage textiles, weaves, and embroideries, and involve more crafts like Pittan. The ‘Miniature Moon’ collection symbolizes the rhythm of time, immortality, and eternity. It’s an amalgamation of the East and the West that successfully embraces the mystical universe of Vilsboll’s art while interpreting it through the Dabu- mud resist technique. With the successive luxury collection- Miniature Moon, Aavaran took its heritage to the ramp of Lakme fashion week. It has built strong market links over the years with reputed brands.
Aavaran is an environmentally as well as socially responsible organisation. The off-cuts from each collection are skillfully woven into rugs, handmade toys and accessories by rural women to ensure that their production generates zero waste. Their idea of sustainability is not just limited to being eco- friendly, repurposing waste and being ethical, but also being able to preserve our heritage and provide an economically sustainable living to the artisans by giving new directions and dimensions to their job.
Their brand, rooted in the ancient craft of mud resist block printing and natural dyes, proudly presents the Padmaja Collection for this festive season. Inspired by the lotus flower, a timeless motif in the Mewar culture, a symbol of purity, prosperity and feminine energy in Udaipur’s art, architecture, and sacred geometry. This collection is hand painted in dabu- the mud resist, hand dyed in natural Indigo and Kashish, and embellished with traditional zari and dabka hand embroidery. Known for our expertise in indigo dyeing, we also introduce our home collection, showcasing a vibrant array of Indian flowers in stunning indigo hues. Additionally, their Pouring Indigo monsoon collection offers a perfect blend of comfort and style, alongside upcycled handmade soft toys for kids, ensuring there
Devi Jaipur:
Devi Jaipur is an eclectic jewellery label that blends traditional designs with a contemporary edge beautifully. Founded by Devika Jethani Arora in 2001, the jewellery label features long-lasting designs that you can wear every day, and with a variety of ensembles. Arora’s collection of necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets are made in 925 sterling silver, and are complemented by natural stones and meenakari.
Devi embodies a vision to express indigenous craft and culture by way of various techniques. Silver is married to natural stones by artisans and the outcome is presented to a discerning audience for them to adorn and express their individuality.
All products at Devi are hand crafted. Jewelry by Devi carries a certain historical/ traditional value which reflects in our design language. All their designs are developed and manufactured in 925 sterling silver, unless specified. Each piece is hand crafted by highly skilled artisans.
They are here at Devi and have made a constant endeavor to improvise with regard to design and quality. Preparing to showcase our designs and products to a wider audience who will be able to truly appreciate the youthfulness and vivacity of contemporary silver jewelry. Each item is created for an esteemed clientele to celebrate an important event or to grace themselves.